S/S11 Shows: The Best of

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON CATWALK SHOW

SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 6.30PM

BATTERSEA POWER STATION

 THEMES: 70’s, shipwreak  COLOURS: Matthew’s usual jewel tones with mixtures of khaki and metallics  FABRICS: Feathers, silk, tufty raffia appliqué, sequins, and of course chiffon.

I have waited a long, long time to go to a Matthew Williamson show so the question I was asking myself as I sat amongst Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevigne, Cat Deeley and Olivia Palermo was; will it be worth the wait?  Well ladies and gentleman, indeed it was!  All the ingredients were there for a successful show; Sienna front row, eye-popping colours a-plenty and a backdrop to end all backdrops.  Matthew is back.  After a few seasons where he seemed to be trying to change direction, it was great to see the Williamson we love parading down the catwalk but with added twists to keep it modern and fashion forward and just…pretty!

As I left the Vauxhall Fashion Scout building to head to the show location at Battersea Power Station, I hopped in a cab thinking the driver would know where to go.  Alas he did not and started freaking out when we got to the dust-filled grounds of the venue which he likened to the Sahara Desert.  Post-Cabbie meltdown, I exited to see the Power Station in all its glory and could see right away why we Fashionistas had the trek to South London.  The catwalk itself was enclosed in a massive tent with open sides where the models where entering the catwalk so we could see the collection against the ruined façade of the towering and glowering plant in the background. 

The clothes I hear you ask?  The clothes were divine as always.  From the petrol sequin dresses, flapper style purple and white fringed dress, the flowing gowns, metallic embroideries, bustier tops and high waisted flares, peacock feather hemlines, foil printed mini dresses and the huge wooden platform sandals with long multi-coloured bags, everything just screamed want (or as I will tell my Credit Card – NEED).

The collection exhibited a 70’s theme with the fringe detailing, wide high waisted flare trousers, and that relaxed glam look associated with the decade but with a modern twist of metallics, sequins, and feathers.  The idea of a shipwrecked girl, toughened up by her time stranded on a beach worked really well as the main theme of the collection as well as sitting well alongside the ruins of the Power Station.

It’s reaaally hard to pick a favourite piece from the collection, I loved various detailing to all the outfits, but I would probably have to say the foil printed mini dress as well as the long sea-green chiffon dress were at the top of my list swiftly followed by the amazing bra top and high waisted flare trousers.

As the show ended I grabbed a quick photo of those on the front row and ran to the buses which would take us back to the main venues.  Drama of the show over?  NO.  As I was heading to the bus a helicopter decides to land about 200 yards away from me throwing dust all over me, hair and bags everywhere and nearly blowing me back over the other side of the Thames!  I will be having words with the helicopters passengers…yes I am talking to you Sienna Miller!  Well at least I fitted in well for the next show Pam Hogg with it’s Caveman theme.  Hmph.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK:

-Jewel tones

-Pops of khaki

-Metallics

-Feathers

-Sequins

-Bustier tops paired with high waisted kick flare trousers

-Long flowing dresses

-Long wavy, unkempt hair.

CRAIG LAWRENCE PRESENTATION

SATURDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2010

SOMERSET HOUSE

THEMES: ‘Siren Mermaid’s’ COLOURS: Mint green, aqua, silver, white FABRICS: Kyotex metallic yarn, cotton tape.

Seductive.  The one word which is best used to describe Craig Lawrence’s S/S 11 collection.  We trotted up the winding staircases at Somerset House to the Portico Rooms to check out what this Ipswich born designer was bringing to the fashion world next season.  And thank god he didn’t disappoint.

Having witnessed his masterful abilities with yarn and all forms of weird fabrics (foil last season), I was intrigued as to where he would go for his next collection.  A relatively new designer, and winner of the BFC NEWGEN award 4 season’s running, Lawrence kept the layering and draping techniques from his last collection, but used different fabrics and shades to encapsulate the seductive and elusiveness of mermaids.

As we arrived we were blessed with Bloody or Virgin Mary’s and cakes, yum!  As we walked around the room I began snapping some photos of the models.  What is great about having a presentation is that the models can stare directly at you and your camera, and you get to see the detail and the intricate beauty of the pieces up close.  We were also treated to a film of the collection which was styled once again by Katie Shillingford which played in the background.

The knitted and hand woven dresses came in silver, white, aqua, mint green and dark green and presented a slinky silhouette with the floor sweeping knitted numbers.  You could literally hear the dresses swoosh as the models walked.  My favourite piece was the short green stripy knitted number which I wanted to rip off the model and run away with!  Don’t worry, I didn’t.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK:

-Look out for hand woven knitted pieces pulled and draped in all different places

-Slinky silhouettes

-Fishtail plaits as sported by the models

-Low backs (Key Trend Alert).

FELDER FELDER CATWALK SHOW

FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010, 4.45PM

BFC CATWALK SPACE

THEMES: Rebellious downtown girl, Easy Rider  COLOURS: Mixture of black with exploding shades of nature, rich fuchsias, vivid ocean and nightsky blues  FABRICS: Signature leathers but with romantic chiffons, organza’s and feathers.

The spring/summer 2011 collection, inspired by an imaginary rebellious muse fascinated with the spirit of the ‘60s road movie Easy Rider and The Doors legend Jim Morrison, featured lots of whimsical skirts and dresses in vividly bright hues, as well as items with their signature edge – think skinny black trousers, see-through tops and ruched leather leggings.

The models stomped down the catwalk to a soundtrack of I Blame Coco’s version of Steppenwolf’s Born To Be Wild (famous for its use in Easy Rider), which had me dancing in my seat!  The twins still had their classic black palette but this collection saw them going in a different direction with their dazzling sequinned mini dresses, romantic chiffon blouses, embellished tight-fitting and floaty sequin dresses…the list goes on.  I absolutely loved their mixtures of fabrics, colours and the way they constructed the garments.  Hard became soft and soft became hard with the floatiest chiffons and structured organza’s given a printed hologramatic bone motif and leather being worked into a 3D exoskeleton giving it an architectural, graphic pop.

Feather detailing will be a key S/S 11 trend with Felder Felder using them as shoulder detailing, on skirts, and on jackets.  The colour was a welcome boost in a schedule of shows where natural colours were the main order of the day so their petrol colours were top of my lust list.  That’s not to say there wasn’t the well-known black, leather Felder Felder staples.  Along with see-through mesh tops, bra tops, leather jackets, leather trousers, there was a standout black piece with a bra top and organza skirt which had me oohhing and ahhing.

The Felder woman is a rebellious soul.  She is born to be wild!

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK:

-Black mixed with exploding shapes (think 70s disco)

-Feather detailing

-70s inspired pieces and colours

-Sparkles

-Collarless jackets

-Full-blown surfer frizzy hair and you’re good to go!

ELLIOTT J. FRIEZE CATWALK SHOW

SUNDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2010, 12.30PM

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT

THEMES: Mrs Practchett’s confectionary in Boy: Tales of a Childhood  COLOURS: Powder shades of Lemon, Blueberry, mint  FABRICS: Superfine wools/silks, cotton/silks, duchess satins and digitally printed chiffon.

Last season saw the launch of Welsh born designer Elliott J. Frieze’s debut Women’s and Menswear collection at London Fashion Week with acclaimed models Jaquetta Wheeler and Amber Le Bon both gracing the Catwalk in his designs.

This season saw Elliott’s inspiration drawn from his friend and muse, Actress, Anna Popplewell.  Anna’s style mixes with competitive sports, equestrian Fixtures, childhood reading and a progressive reinvigoration of classic mein, saw a collection filled with beautifully structured and colourful pieces.  Jumpsuits, waistcoats, ruffles, blue satin dresses and shirt dresses, blue check dresses, high-waisted navy trousers, cropped jackets, structures shoulders, defined waists, defined cuff details, silk neckties, and sunglasses galore where the mix of the collection.  The long hemlines we are seeing this A/W season are still going to be dominant next season but Elliot added a sophisticated, youthful take on a classic shape.  Even the music itself was sophisticated and sensual yet youthful with French classics echoing around the catwalk (my favourite soundtrack on the week).

The finale piece – which got its own section in the show when the lights went down and up again as the beautiful Anna Popplewell (of Narnia fame) – was sent down the catwalk to the dulcet tones of Marilyn Monroe singing ‘When I Fall in love’ wearing a beautifully constructed silver blue duchess satin ballgown with defined waist, shoulders and bust.  Heaven.

The collection’s palette portrays “Mrs Pratchett’s” array of confectionary in Roald Dahl’s “Boy: Tales of a Childhood’.  “Represented by the powder shades of Lemon and Blueberry sherbet, hard-boiled peppermints coupled with vibrant shades of fruit nougat for trimmings” along with his Quentin Blake illustrations inspiration, it really was a collection with everything in it and thank god – unlike a lot of S/S shows – it wasn’t safe.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK:

-Powder palette

-Elegant drapery (KEY TREND ALERT)

-Silk neckties

-Waistcoats

-Structured jackets (especially Mac-style)

-Blue lips

PROPHETIK CATWALK SHOW

FRIDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2010 , NOON

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT

THEMES:Midnight Garden’  COLOURS: Ivory, indigo, oatmeal, lavender, copper, sea foam, raspberry and coral  FABRICS: Sustainable fabrics such as hemp silk, linen, ramie, organic cottons and reclaimed leather.

Prophetik is an eight-year-old, all-sustainable fashion lifestyle brand designed by, Jeff Garner from Leiper’s Fork, Tennessee.  Employing recycled bottles transformed into fleece, herringbone hemp, peace silk, linen and hemp jersey, Jeff injects style and soul into a unisex line.

Botticelli’s Venus took centre stage for Prophetik’s S/S 2011 collection entitled ‘Midnight Garden’.  The collection provoked mystery and innocence with beautiful flowing Southern ball gowns trimmed with beaded leather ropes and delicate lace, tailored jackets and waistcoats decorated with antique buttons, pin-tucked tea dresses, hooded tunics and long-hemmed bloomers. 

The first piece out on the catwalk was my favourite, with its long flowing looseness and leather rope detailing, LOVED IT!  The collection and the presentation had a Shakespeare’s ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ ethereal feel to it with Jeff’s use of elegant silhouettes and offish-white pieces.  The live Southern Bluegrass band The Hogslops –from Jeff’s native Leipers Fork – added an extra theatrical element to the proceedings, I felt like I was at a Ho-down! 

But back to the clothes.  As the models walked down the Green Turf catwalk (yes green turf), we were greeted with beautiful, almost other-worldly pieces.  The womenswear collection was filled with whimsical, floaty dresses and ball gown dresses with varying necklines and straps whilst the menswear was more focused on layering with neckerchiefs, exquisitely tailored jackets and waistcoats decorated with antique buttons.  The sustainable fashion theme was also relayed in the colour scheme with references made to the elements earth and water; earth based dyes hailing from indigo, dried indigo leaves, madder root, iron, marigold, and logwood where mixed with sea blues and greens really showcasing the beauty of Earth’s natural resources.

HOW TO RECREATE THE LOOK:

-Sustainable fabrics

-Earth or water colours

-French plaited whimsical hair

-Tie Dye

-Defined shoulder detailing such as box or balloon shoulders

-Cravats

-Waistcoats (male & females)

-Think of a Tennessee Williams heroine.

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2 thoughts on “S/S11 Shows: The Best of

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